By painting over the primer with POR-15 you are not getting the advantages the POR-15 offers as the POR-15 can not bond to the metal surface itself. For the protection against rust that POR15 is designed for you need to apply the POR15 to a rusty surface or clean bare metal. Using the product as your asking about would really be using POR-15 as a very expensive topcaot. While I'd love to sell you enough to paint the entire car, Im not going to lie and tell you this would be a perfect option.

Along this line we painted out 67 Camaro completly with POR-15 top to bottom with 2 coats. Then coated this with 6 coats of POR-15s TIE-COAT Primer. What we have now is a body protected and ready to sand and apply the finial coat of paint. Images of this can be see here

Camaro Image

Disassembling a car properly takes a long time and a lot of work. A good way to minimize the hours and dollars you spend putting it back together is by doing things slowly, methodically and carefully. The pace will be slow because you need to document every step. It needs to be methodical to keep your enthusiasm from getting ahead of yourself. You must be patient and do things carefully to avoid breaking anything. Park the car so that it will be easy to work on because it may stay there for a while, take a deep breath and get started.Difficulty: AverageTime Required: 5 - 7 days
Here's How:

1. Take a lot of pictures before you begin the disassembly process. Make sure you get all the body parts, chrome and hinges from all angles. Take detailed shots of the seam lines around the hood and doors, corners of the windshield and window moldings, and the engine compartment. When taking pictures of the interior, don’t forget to take shots of the underside of the dash and capture shots of the doors opened as well as closed. It may be a long time before you start putting it back together again and it’s easy to forget what went where. Keep the camera handy and take more pictures at each major disassembly step.
2. Get a box of zip lock plastic bags in each size available to store every nut, bolt, hinge, clip, shim, etc. Have permanent ink markers in a variety of colors to write a description on each bag as to what’s inside and what it goes to. You can differentiate car parts by using different color markers; maybe you use one color for the left side and another for the right. Anything that will help you find the right parts bag when reassembling is a time saver.
3. Make sure you have a pen and spiral bound notebook by your side at all times to document any helpful reminders, parts in need of replacement and to take inventory. Don’t think you can remember everything even an hour later. Keeping a log such as this can help you stay organized. When searching eBay and other Internet sites for replacement parts where you may need the part number for reference, rummaging through numerous boxes is a waste of time. It's much easier to refer back to your inventory list for bag 10, box 3.
4. Start by removing all trim, decorative items, mirrors, bumpers and bumper guards. This is where being careful is very important - it's a lot easier to find rod bearings than it is to hunt down replacement trim. Pry gently to pop loose expansion fasteners used on emblems and trim to avoid breakage and use penetrating oil on rusty nuts and bolt. Some chrome trim strips and emblems require special tools for removal and attempting to use something else may be a costly error; trim removal tools are usually under $20.
5. Remove the fenders, hood and trunk lid with the assistance of at least one able body to avoid damage and personal injury. Make notes in your notebook as to where any shims or washers were used for alignment and take pictures for reference. If you don’t put them back precisely where they were, your hood or truck lid won’t fit or close properly. If the doors do not need repair, you may want to consider leaving them on. In my opinion, getting them to hang properly in the re-assembly process is one of the hardest parts of the project.
6. Remove the front windshield and the rear window by first removing the chrome molding from the outside of the car, being careful not to scratch the glass with tools. Before you start to remove the gaskets from the inside of the glass, put on heavy gloves and goggles; old glass has been known to shatter unexpectedly. Cut around the lip of the seal with a utility knife, keeping away from the glass. Have your able bodied friend gently push from the outside while you support the glass from the inside and catch it as it pops out.
7. This would be a good point to gut the interior. Remove the seats, doors and interior panels, carpeting and headliner. If your classic’s dash needs painting, you will need to remove the dash panel cover and gauges. With the battery disconnected, wrap and label exposed wires with masking tape. Small parts like door handles and window cranks can be stored in plastic bags. Larger items, like seats and panels, can be wrapped in the plastic bags dry cleaners use to cover your clothes.
8. Clear the firewall and take all the accessories off the engine. In a typical restoration, the firewall is painted and all mechanical parts are removed and rebuilt. If you decide to send the engine out to be rebuilt, you can be rebuilding the carburetor, generator and other accessories while you are waiting for the machine work to be done. If the engine doesn’t need rebuilding, make sure to wrap it up securely with plastic to keep moisture away. If possible, don’t remove wiring. Use it as a guide when installing new wiring and wiring harness, then remove the old as you complete each step in the new installation.
9. Go through your notebook and highlight all the parts that need to be replaced and make a separate "to do" list for ordering them. Use your local car club for referrals to find shops that do good chrome replating and parts repair; that can be a job in itself. Be aware that using high quality restoration vendors will cost a bit more and take a little longer to complete the job, but it will be worth it.

Tips:

1. Don't throw anything away, you will be amazed how valuable a worn out part can be when it can't be replaced
2. If you need to use a propane or acetylene torch to loosen stubborn fasteners, have a fire extinguisher on hand.

What You Need:

• Camera
• Storage shelves and boxes
• Safety glasses
• Plastic bags
• Permanent markers
• Spiral notebook or journal
• Protective gloves
• Good set of tools
• Penetrating oil
• Old towels and blankets

When ever we are considering a car that might be a potential for purchase, we use this 90 point inspection check list. And never make an offer unless each point has been evaluated thoroughly and then discussed with a trusted mechanic. When you love older cars as we do, it is very easy to be intoxicated by them. This list helps us take off the "beer goggles" and see the car for what it really is and what it might do to our budget.Difficulty: AverageTime Required: 1 to 2 hours
Here's How:

1. Ask to see all paperwork and documentation.
   • Make sure the VIN matches other VIN's on the vehicle and paperwork (original/no alterations)
   • If the car has been restored, ask for any pictures taken before, during and after
   • Check service history for repairs, oil changes and scheduled maintenance
2. Start the car.
   • Check for smoke coming from the exhaust
   • Listen to the engine idle quality when cold and hot
   • Rev the engine; is it smooth? Document any noises
   • Keep it running until the engine is hot and check for exhaust smoke again
3. Take the car for a road test.
   • Inspect engine performance and acceleration
   • Listen for engine noise at high/low speeds
   • Listen for automatic transmission/transaxle noise
   • Is the automatic transmission shifting smoothly
   • Listen for drive axle and transfer case bearings or gear noise/vibration
   • Check the manual clutch for engagement, chatter or slippage
   • Test the steering for responsivness/smoothness/play
   • Test brakes for effectiveness/operation/noise/pulling
   • Check gauge operation; Speedometer/Tachometer/Odometer
   • Document temp/oil/battery gauges when hot and cold
   • Check the suspension on a rough road
4. Visually inspect the exterior.
   • Check everywhere for rust
   • Visually inspect for repairs or damage
   • Check body panels for dings, dents, alignment, mismatched paint and overall paint condition
   • A magnet can detect any filler used in repaired dents
   • Inspect for chrome damage, alignment and improper repairs
   • Open and close doors/hood/trunk/tailgate for proper operation
   • Inspect grill/trim/molding for bends, dings, missing parts and proper attachment
   • Inspect the windshield and side and rear windows for damages, pitting, repairs, wiper marks or cracks
   • Check the mirrors condition and hinge operation
5. Check to make sure all interior/exterior lights are operational.
   • Head lights, high and low beams
   • Tail lights
   • Brake lights
   • Parking lights
   • Hazard lights
   • Reverse lights
   • Turn signals
   • License late lights
   • Fog/Driving lights
   • Interior lights
   • Dashboard lights
   • Check for cracked or clouded lenses
6. Inspect the interior.
   • Are the seat belts operational
   • Test audio/alarm/speaker systems
   • Test heating/ventilation/AC/defogger/defroster
   • Is the clock keeping time
   • Check the horn
   • Inspect the lighter/power outlets condition/operation
   • Inspect glove box/glove box light/hinges
   • Inspect armrest/console condition/operation
   • Is steering tilt/lock operational
   • Check rear view mirror condition
   • Check fuel filler door release
   • Check that all door handles operate
   • Inspect interior trim/carpet/floor mats/door panels/headliner/sun visors
   • Make sure that the automatic/manual door locks are functional
7. Inspect all leather/vinyl/material.
   • Check the condition of seat upholstery for wear/rips/cracks/fading/stains
   • Check the dashboard/door/headliner for splitting or water damage
   • Inspect sunroof/moon roof/convertible top
   • Inspect convertible tops condition/operation/fit
   • Check convertible top boot
8. It's time to open up the hood.
   • Check for oil leaks
   • Inspect air filter for oil
   • Check the oil for water/sludge/clarity/level.
   • Inspect timing belt/chain.
   • Check all fluid levels.
   • Inspect belts for wear and fraying.
   • Check hoses.
   • Inspect wiring.
   • Inspect engine mounts.
   • Look for water pump leaks.
   • Pressure test radiator cap.
   • Look for fuel pump leaks.
   • Inspect fuel filter.
9. Kicking the tires.
   • Inspect tires for correct size/tread depth/pressure
   • Check the tires for abnormal wear
   • Inspect condition of valve stems
   • Do all the tires match
   • Does the spare match
   • While you're checking the spare, inspect luggage compartment for rust
   • Is there a jack or tools
10. Don't forget the car's rubber parts
    • Check windshield wipers condition
    • Inspect interior and exterior rubber trim for splitting

Tips:

1. If at any time during your inspection the seller tries to point you in a different area of the car or wants you to take their "word" that something is in good working condition, that's a signal to look more closely. Only when you have completed a checklist like this will you have a good understanding of the car's imperfections.
2. Make copious notes on everything and discuss what you find with a trusted mechanic. He can then provide an estimate on any repair costs to assist in your negotiations with the seller.

The collector-car world loves Mopars right now; witness the regular six-figure pricing that correct Plymouths and Dodges are netting when they cross the auction block. This has made Julius Steuer's life a lot more difficult.

"Right now, we're doing a 440 Six Pack Challenger convertible. Everything in it had to be changed-the quarters, the floors... it's going to have $35,000 in bodywork when it's done. Five years ago, that's all these cars were worth! Now, you have to do it."

In his years in the business, Julius has become one of the nation's premiere Mopar restorers-he was putting Mopars back together when Mopars weren't cool. His dad was a Mopar man, and bought a 383 four-speed Belvedere in '67; that car ended up in Julius' hands a year later, and it's been all Mopars ever since. Restorations by Julius has been in its current location in Chatsworth, California, for more than a decade; he underwrites the twice-yearly Mopar "Fling" events in nearby Van Nuys, and he is the West Coast's go-to guy for Mopar restorations, restifications and refurbishment.

It also means that despite the ravages of time, the number of cars worth restoring are somehow increasing. "In the last three or four years, cars not worth restoring are now suddenly worth restoring. I like to say that we're getting cars from deeper out of the lake now... we used to get them from the shoreline, and now when we find them they're completely underwater. No one stands out as being particularly outstanding, but we've brought plenty of cars back from the dead." He offers no particular example, but the ravages of time haven't made it any easier.

A couple of these corpses are parked out in the back lot: A Daytona Charger, trunk floor and driver's footwell perforated with rot, a rear window plug (minus window) rotted 360 degrees around the opening. It's shocking enough to find a wing car that hasn't been restored and sent across the auction block three times in its life, much less one that's field-stripped and looks ready for the boneyard.

Next to it resides a Challenger convertible under a tarp; it was originally a particularly putrid shade of avocado, has had a couple of fenders replaced over the years (one of which appears to be purple, under the peeling black paint), and features quarters and doors that are soaked in surface rust. The tarp goes back on out of respect for the dead.

Bring Julius a rotten piece of Highland Park steel and it'll take 18 months to make it look like new again; rather a lot of that, he confesses, is involved in getting quality bodywork done. These things take time, and the body shops Julius farms the metalwork out to are meticulous in their craft. That, and some issues with Mopar Performance's crate-engine cylinder heads at the moment, are all that keeps him from stepping up his volume.

A factory Curious Yellow '71 Cuda ragtop is in from Europe getting refreshed, along with a crate Hemi being slipped into the subframe in lieu of the 318 that the factory put there. Determining which cars are "real" and which ones are resto-mods is simple: "A real car gets done by the numbers. If it's a clone, owners go all out with colors and options-rubber bumpers, 472 crate Hemis, five-speed conversions... there's no in-between. No one will bring in a red Hemi Daytona four-speed and say "paint it purple." But on a 318 or 383 Challenger, anything goes."

Though a wing car and a Road Runner also inhabit the shop as we drop by, Julius' business right now is all about the '71 Cudas. "The production numbers went way down in '71 compared to '70, so it's supply and demand, but I think Nash Bridges did a lot for those cars." Not Challengers? "Challengers are now the cars you get when you can't afford a 'Cuda. Almost no one comes in and says they have to have a Challenger-everyone wants a 'Cuda, and some will settle."

What about B-bodies? "Not that hot either. Road Runners and Chargers will have a following... Chargers, thanks to the Dukes of Hazzard, and Road Runners are always fun."

There may be some hope for the A-bodies, though: "They might go up a little... along with the Hemi super-stockers, of course, maybe a top-of-the-line '69 Barracuda 440, or maybe a 383 4-speed convertible will be hot."

C-bodies? "Never."

Take these professionals' advice and learn what to look for Let's face it-not all of us have the tools, skills and space to restore a muscle car by ourselves. Where does this leave us? There are hundreds of restoration professionals out there who can tackle even the rustiest hulk of a formerly glorious car. Before you can choose a restoration shop, you've got to decide what you want the finished car to be (Concours-winning show car, or simply a nice driver?) and how much money you can spend to get it to that point.

When you finally own a restoration-worthy car, you'll have to determine if you can perform any aspects of the rebuild yourself, or if you'll have to farm out the entire project to specialists. If you reason that restoration is out of your league, the next step becomes the homework you'll have to do in order to pick a restoration shop that will deliver the finished product you envision while remaining close to your budget and time schedule.

"Talk to other people at car shows," advises Gary Stone, a self-employed restoration specialist in Pawlet, Vermont. "Pick a car like the one you want to restore, or one that appeals to you. Talk with the owner about the restoration, and find out if any other cars at the show were done by the same restorer." You may learn of shops that specialize in GMs, Fords, Mopars or AMCs, but they aren't automatically your best choice-the best will be restorers who do the most careful and thorough work.

You'll have to do a fair amount of research; call a variety of shops and speak with the owner or principal restoration specialist. Talk with them about your vision of the completed car, and ask them what they have to offer. A good shop manager will be more than happy to discuss his experience and restoration techniques, and will do the same for any of his employees. It's also important to learn if the shop stores all cars being worked on indoors, and if they carry enough insurance to cover all vehicles in the shop.

As you visit prospective restoration shops, you should pay attention to the appearance of the facilities and the equipment with which it is furnished. If you've got a car that will require extensive metal fabrication, look to see if they have a metal brake, an English wheel, a shrinker/stretcher and a bead roller, among other important metalworking tools. They should also have a blast cabinet, a lathe, and a half-ton press as well as gas and MIG welding equipment. Organization and adequate space are also important in a shop.

"When you're working on a car, it's often hard to keep the work space clean, but it's important that there is room to work on a car and good access to the parts and equipment that will be needed," says Joe Myers of Myers Classic and Custom in Palmer, Massachusetts.

The reputation of a shop is extremely important, as is the satisfaction of its former customers. Ralph Prueitt of Al Prueitt & Sons in Glen Rock, Pennsylvania, offers advice: "Stop in the local parts store and ask the guys how (the restoration shop is). They'll always tell you-they never pay on time, or, they're great guys who do good work." Contacting old customers is also a smart bet. "A restoration shop should be willing to give you the phone numbers of previous clients," Joe adds. "You should talk to those clients about what was done to their cars, and look at (the work) if possible."

You will sometimes come across shops that advertise both collision work and auto restoration. While most restoration professionals focus solely on restoration work, some shops combine it with collision repair. Some restorers caution against using a combination shop, arguing that collision expertise isn't restoration expertise and that prompt work and attention to detail can suffer. Tom Kazanji, owner of Redz Auto Collision and Restorations in White Plains, New York, has been restoring cars for years and disagrees. "I don't do that much collision work anymore; there are a lot of guys here who handle it," he says, explaining that his Shark laser measuring machine forms a de facto line of demarcation between the everyday insurance work and the restoration work he handles personally.

When you feel comfortable with a shop, it's important to discuss all the particulars of the costs that occur during a restoration. Tom says that his labor rate is $65 an hour, but explains, "I job-cost every single project that comes through here, because the materials are exorbitant. You're talking $2,000 to $3,000 per car just for paint, primer and painting supplies. I have a 1970-1/2 Z/28 in here now that's going to cost $10,000 just to paint. You have to understand, these are projects that can take four to five months to finish. It's not like Mrs. Smith, whose Honda Accord gets smacked up and it's gone from here in three days."

When you've chosen your restoration shop, get a written estimate for the labor, materials and parts required for the project, but remember that estimates are subject to change. "It's difficult to figure an exact price on any restoration," Gary says. "I'll have a general idea of what it will cost, but even my best guesses are often low. You've got to be prepared to spend more money," Tom adds, depending on the situation, a car's restoration may end up costing many times its value. A shop that specializes in your car may change a flat rate, with a clause for extra charges due to unforeseen additional work, while a general restorer may charge for labor, materials and parts separately. A deposit is often required to secure services and begin the parts ordering process.

Be aware that better restoration shops will often have substantial waiting lists, ranging from months to years.

"Any good restoration shop will be booked for at least a year," explains Mopar restoration specialist Dennis Kohr of Kohr's Kustoms in Myerstown, Pennsylvania. "If you can get into a shop right away, you should question the quality of its work. My waiting list is between three and four years; as soon as we finish a car here, another one rolls in. I usually have five cars in the shop at any one time, and full-blown restorations can take a year. There is so much down-time... I let primer set for 30 days before sanding it for paint."

Once a restoration begins, most good restorers want to remain in touch with the car's owner to allow progress updates as well as to keep abreast of potential financial issues. If the shop you've chosen isn't within reasonable driving distance, be sure to ask for detailed photographs on a regular basis.

The METAL-READY is a hi-zinc formula, Excess acids from METAl-READY may effect the way the POR-15 bonds. All you want is for the acids in METAL-READY to do it's job then remove the excess. If you leave the product on the surface you may have issue. If the METAL-READY had dried you can soak the surface down again with warm water and wash it off, you just do not want to leave the excess on before you paint with any POR-15 Paint.

Recommended Temperature Application: 45°F - 95°F , Humidity is best when above 50% as POR-15 is a moisture cured product and cures faster with a higher humitity.

Hi Peter, Welcome to the forums..

First I want to say your project is not an uncommon task. In fact we have done several in the same catagory your in. My personal car, a 67 Camaro was the latest.

First I want to recomment roller as the last option. If possable use a spray gun for better, and even coverage. if that isn't an option use a wide brush, something around 2" in width. Formost the car needs to be preped for best results and over all application.

Removal of both the MARIN-CLEAN and METAL-READY are very important.
Fiest: MARINE-CLEAN
You want to use a 5:1 ratio of Metal-Ready to give the car a good bath. Several times if required to make sure all the loose rust, dirt, oils, anything that can keep the POR-15 from sticking good to the body. You'd hate to have the POR-15 come off in sheets due to the surface being contaminated. Then give it a GOOD rinse. Flood the car with clear water from a hose. Make sure nothing is draining from the car except clear water. If you see other bits of dirt, rust, or anything other then water draining it need to be washed again. Better yet you may just flood the car with clear water first to get as much out as you can, then follow up with Metal-Ready.

Next: METAL-READY
Use it streight from the bottle, Keep the surface soaked for at LEAST 30 minutes since your talking about a rust covered area. A good way to do this is with a paint gun. Drop the air down to 25-30 psi and use it to soak the surface repatedly as it starts to dry to keep it wet. DO NOT let the Metal-Ready dry. Then rinse with clear water (hose). If this requires doing several sections at a time then do that. Just do not let the Metal-Ready dry on the surface. Once dry you may see a slight white coating on verious areas. This is excess Metal-Ready that didn't get washed away. Use a wet soft cloth and just whip the area and rinse with water again.

Next: POR-15
I'd suggest using POR-15 Silver for the first coat, and even the 2nd coat if you desire. Alternating colors will help you make sure you have 2 coats over everything. Silver have metal fillers which witll help fill pits and level out the surface for you. Again, I'd use a spray gun if able or a brush. For the area your talking a Gun would be your best bet. Apply 2 coats AT LEAST, with 5-6 hours between coats. Apply a 3rd coat if desired due to the amount of rust your working with.

Now the body work issue... After 36 hours I'd do any body work you plan to do. Use the fillers we have to make sure the filler work bonds to the POR-15. Some filler will not stick to the smooth surface. Our fullers are formulated just for that. Do all the sanding you require on the fillers to get the body as close to finish as you can..

Last..: Tie-Coat Primer.
This primer is designed to bond to POR-15 and not release like some primers will do again due to the smooth surface. It's a high build primer that is sandable and can be resanded as required to get a finish desired. On my 67 I applies 4 coats, 24 hours apart. Now I have a full body car covered in POR-15 and ready to sand for the finish I desire and work to be done. You can sand as required and even add more coats of TIE-COAT as required till you have a nice SMOOTH finihs over the whole body. Then use the required sealer for the paint brand you plan to use as a finish coat when painting.

Hope all this helps.