Hi

I have a 1932 Chevy and I am pretty much done all my welding/repair on the body. It is 100% rust,fine to medium depth pits every where, no original paint. I got the car some years after it was either blasted or dipped. I would like to use POR15 on the whole body, it is already completely disassembled. Any issues? I will likely try a roller on the inside parts/panels first. I realize will need to skim coat with filler the outside to get a decent finnish. Where liquid can get trapped (valley or lap seam) how important is it to remove the marine clean with water cleanup and/or metal ready? If my first POR coat has very thin spots, (still see rust) will that particular spot need 2 more?

Peter

Hi Peter, Welcome to the forums..

First I want to say your project is not an uncommon task. In fact we have done several in the same catagory your in. My personal car, a 67 Camaro was the latest.

First I want to recomment roller as the last option. If possable use a spray gun for better, and even coverage. if that isn't an option use a wide brush, something around 2" in width. Formost the car needs to be preped for best results and over all application.

Removal of both the MARIN-CLEAN and METAL-READY are very important.
Fiest: MARINE-CLEAN
You want to use a 5:1 ratio of Metal-Ready to give the car a good bath. Several times if required to make sure all the loose rust, dirt, oils, anything that can keep the POR-15 from sticking good to the body. You'd hate to have the POR-15 come off in sheets due to the surface being contaminated. Then give it a GOOD rinse. Flood the car with clear water from a hose. Make sure nothing is draining from the car except clear water. If you see other bits of dirt, rust, or anything other then water draining it need to be washed again. Better yet you may just flood the car with clear water first to get as much out as you can, then follow up with Metal-Ready.

Next: METAL-READY
Use it streight from the bottle, Keep the surface soaked for at LEAST 30 minutes since your talking about a rust covered area. A good way to do this is with a paint gun. Drop the air down to 25-30 psi and use it to soak the surface repatedly as it starts to dry to keep it wet. DO NOT let the Metal-Ready dry. Then rinse with clear water (hose). If this requires doing several sections at a time then do that. Just do not let the Metal-Ready dry on the surface. Once dry you may see a slight white coating on verious areas. This is excess Metal-Ready that didn't get washed away. Use a wet soft cloth and just whip the area and rinse with water again.

Next: POR-15
I'd suggest using POR-15 Silver for the first coat, and even the 2nd coat if you desire. Alternating colors will help you make sure you have 2 coats over everything. Silver have metal fillers which witll help fill pits and level out the surface for you. Again, I'd use a spray gun if able or a brush. For the area your talking a Gun would be your best bet. Apply 2 coats AT LEAST, with 5-6 hours between coats. Apply a 3rd coat if desired due to the amount of rust your working with.

Now the body work issue... After 36 hours I'd do any body work you plan to do. Use the fillers we have to make sure the filler work bonds to the POR-15. Some filler will not stick to the smooth surface. Our fullers are formulated just for that. Do all the sanding you require on the fillers to get the body as close to finish as you can..

Last..: Tie-Coat Primer.
This primer is designed to bond to POR-15 and not release like some primers will do again due to the smooth surface. It's a high build primer that is sandable and can be resanded as required to get a finish desired. On my 67 I applies 4 coats, 24 hours apart. Now I have a full body car covered in POR-15 and ready to sand for the finish I desire and work to be done. You can sand as required and even add more coats of TIE-COAT as required till you have a nice SMOOTH finihs over the whole body. Then use the required sealer for the paint brand you plan to use as a finish coat when painting.

Hope all this helps.

Thanks for the info,
One other question.. what kind of humidity and or temperature is best for applying?? I do not have a have any control over those
except which day to do it on?

Recommended Temperature Application: 45°F - 95°F , Humidity is best when above 50% as POR-15 is a moisture cured product and cures faster with a higher humitity.

Dave, why is it so critical that the Metal-Ready does not dry? What does happen if it dries for 30 seconds or so before it gets rewetted or rinsed?
Peter

The METAL-READY is a hi-zinc formula, Excess acids from METAl-READY may effect the way the POR-15 bonds. All you want is for the acids in METAL-READY to do it's job then remove the excess. If you leave the product on the surface you may have issue. If the METAL-READY had dried you can soak the surface down again with warm water and wash it off, you just do not want to leave the excess on before you paint with any POR-15 Paint.

Dave,

I would like to know what issues there are if I want to do the interior and/or exterior body in sections? Surfaces above, below or beside another vertical sheetmetal area.... i.e. how does all the preparation steps on an area just vertically above an area thats already been POR15'ed. Gravity says some of everything will get on the previous POR15.



I have not dealt with the large open soft top hole yet, (32 Chev) and I need to start the interior wood replacement, (with tubing) and need to cover some areas up permanently before continuing. If I have to move the car, say to farm out the welding of the top I have to have bracing in place first



I need to put door skins on the door frame, I assume I would POR 15 all and assemble. How thick are 8 coats of POR? The fold of the skin over the frame has 4 surfaces (X 2 coats)

Should I pre bend the skin at 90 or will POR handle the 180 degree bend over the frame?

Hello, any one there?